How To: Take Photos Like a Giant

person with camera

When trying to photograph construction sites and buildings I am always battling the twin challenges of view angle and obstructions. The Pole-Cam mostly solves both of these challenges way more conveniently and cost effectively than using a drone.

 

I knew through my drone photography that getting a camera up in the air made for great construction photos. Unfortunately drones are expensive, have limited flight time, and can’t be flown safely in all conditions. Also, I don’t always have my drone with me. 

 

The Setup

I had seen other photographers use pole mounted cameras online, but had some unique requirements for my setup.

 

My Pole-Cam must be:

  • Sturdy
  • Easy to set up and break down
  • Fit in the trunk of my car
  • As tall as possible given the criteria above

 

Doing some research online revealed that the retractable painters pole would fit my requirements and they ranged in size (fully extended) from a few feet to 30 feet tall.  

 

I ultimately chose the Pro Everlok 4-12 foot pole that I discovered at Burke Brothers Hardware.

[[Quick Aside: the longer I live in Raleigh the more I am amazed by Burke Brothers. They don’t have everything, but they have everything you need and the version they have is usually the best!]]

 

The pole is closer to  five feet tall, fully retracted, and just barely fits in my trunk. This is what sealed the deal. All other poles would have either not fit in the trunk or only extend to approximately eight feet.  

 

An added bonus for the shorter minimum height is that I (at six feet tall) can stand on the ground and easily extend the pole straight up. With a taller pole, if I didn’t have something to step up on, I would have to angle the pole away from me to make it extend. This required angle would be very difficult on the street or in a tight space.   

 

If trunk storage or standing vertical extension aren’t requirements for you, I would buy a pole like the Wooster Sherlock that has a positive locking mechanism rather than the clamp lock on the Everlok. The Wooster seems much more stable. 

 

The Adapter

A standard camera has a 1/4-20 female thread. The painter pole has a 3/4-5 male thread. To connect the camera to the pole I bought a painters pole adapter. The Nootle adapter that I bought off of Amazon also has a small ball head adapter on top, which comes in handy. The ball head is removable, but I leave it on. 

 

The Camera

A camera 12-18 feet in the air is no good for picture making if you can’t hit the shutter button. 

 

I bought an Olympus TG-6 a few years ago. I love it. It can be triggered through an app that makes a wi-fi connection between the camera and a cell phone. Using the app I can see what the camera sees, frame my shot, adjust settings, and trigger the camera. MAGIC!

 

Conclusion

The Pole-Cam has been a game changer for my development photography. 

 

With a few minutes of setup time I can have an aerial vantage point that easily clears other people, cars, and equipment. If I hold the pole over my head – which is only stable for a few minutes at a time – I can take a photo from ~19 feet up. 

 

An added benefit to the height of the camera is that I can frame up most buildings and sites without the need to “look up” at large structures. Angling the camera causes distortion called perspective distortion. The distortion goes away if the camera is held parallel to the subject, which is possible in more situations with the Pole-Cam. 

 

I can also use the Pole-Cam anywhere cameras are allowed, and I can get elevated imagery indoors and around crowds of people. It is awesome.

 

Equipment List:

  • Collapsible painters pole
  • Camera thread adapter
  • Mini ball head
  • Camera with remote trigger
painters pole
The pole
pole adapter
Pole-to-camera adapter with ball head
camera adapter
Camera adapter - painters pole threading
Person with pole camera
Camera at ~5 feet
Person with pole camera
Camera at ~12 feet
Person with pole camera
Camera at ~18 feet
Trunk of car
"Like a glove"!
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